The Swiss landscapes are stunning at any time of year, but during winter in Switzerland, when everything is cloaked in a fresh dusting of snow, it becomes truly magical.
It really is the perfect destination in Europe for a snowy weekend away. While many people enjoy the colder months in Switzerland for the skiing, I prefer it for winter hikes, snowy scenery and cozying up in an alpine chalet at the end of the day!
There are so many beautiful spots to choose from for winter in Switzerland, one of my favourites so far is the little village of Kandersteg in the Bernese Oberlands, where my boyfriend and I spent 2 nights one February.
The Swiss Village of Kandersteg
This charming resort village is located at 1200m in the Bernese Oberland region of Switzerland. With its traditional wooden chalets, quaint church, and the epic views of mountains and waterfalls, it’s a perfect example of how picturesque Switzerland can be. Despite being a popular area, I feel it has really maintained its small village character and remains very peaceful.
In the summer months it is a hiker’s paradise, with many incredible mountain trails, including ones to and around the famously idyllic lake of Oeschinensee. Having previously done a couple of day trips and hikes in this area during summer and autumn, I was already completely in love with the picturesque landscapes. (Interested in Kandersteg in the summer? Then check out this post!)
After loving it so much during these past visits, I had a feeling it would be just as incredible as a winter wonderland and so the perfect setting for a 2-night getaway in February.
Hotel Adler
When I think of winter in the alps, one of the first things that comes to mind is cozy chalet vibes.
So that’s exactly what I was focusing on when searching the web for accommodation for our winter weekend in Kandersteg. As well having a cozy atmosphere to return to after a chilly day out in the mountains, we also wanted somewhere with a little slice luxury. For us that didn’t mean anything too crazy, but a nice restaurant and a spa were going to be a very welcome treat.
After a little searching, I found Hotel Adler, which ticked all of the above boxes (cozy chalet vibes, nice restaurant on site and a spa)! Best of all – it had all of these for a very reasonable price (for Switzerland)! When splitting the price of the room, it cost us around 90 CHF, which I thought was very fair considering I’ve come across rooms A LOT more expensive with a lot less here before!
Every room has a balcony with a mountain view, and some even have a hot tub! The restaurant and spa lived up to expectations and I enjoyed the rustic, cozy atmosphere here. The only thing I wouldn’t recommend is the breakfast. I just thought it was a little expensive for what it was! We got a cheaper supermarket breakfast on our second morning.
Day 1: arriving in the evening to a winter wonderland…
Since I was working on the Friday of our weekend getaway, I knew we would arrive late in Kandersteg. Therefore, the previous day I stocked up on all the supplies we would need to have an apero style dinner in our room once we arrived.
As soon as I finished work for the evening, I hurried to Zürich main station to meet my boyfriend, who had kindly carried in both our bags and the cool bag full of food supplies! We made a quick stop at Sprüngli to buy some Luxemburgerli (mini-macaroons) before hopping on our train.
A couple of hours later, we arrived in Kandersteg. As we stepped off the train, it was pitch black other than a few dim street lamps and it was bitterly cold. The snow had been piled high when forming pathways through the village, and we followed them until we found the Hotel Adler.
Once we had checked in, I felt happy that I had chosen to bring our own dinner with us. It meant we could immediately get changed into our cozy clothes and get warm and comfy up in our room. All while enjoying our food, wine and the snowy nighttime scenes out the window. It was like being in a Christmas movie and made me feel all warm and fuzzy!
When we were full up on food, and the excitement of looking at the snowy views outside had worn off (okay, it never REALLY wore off), the tiredness from our long day hit us and we decided to call it a night. As we cozied up in bed, I was still bubbling with excitement. Winter in Switzerland is truly magical and I couldn’t wait for the snowy adventures to begin!
Day 2: a spa morning, snowy views, hiking on a frozen lake and traditional Swiss cuisine…
Is there a more magical feeling than waking up to snowfall?! I can’t think of one! After a cozy night in our hotel, being able to stand out on our balcony the next morning (not for too long though, it was pretty chilly!) watching the snow falling around us got me all giddy like an excited child!
Our plan for the day was to head up in the cable car from Kandersteg to Oeschinensee. From checking the weather and webcams (I always recommend this when in the mountains btw!) we knew that visability would be pretty much none existent in the morning. Luckily, it looked like the clouds would clear and the sun would come out in the afternoon!
With that in mind, we chose to spend the morning in the hotel spa and then the afternoon out in the mountains. After breakfast, we donned our robes and got ready for some serious relaxation! Surprisingly, we had the spa area all to ourselves which made it extra peaceful and meant I even could sneak a few photos. This was our first experience of a Swiss spa in winter, and there was something so satisfying about being in a hot pool or sauna while seeing the snow outside.
We grabbed a quick lunch in our room, wrapped up warm in all our winter outdoor gear and then headed outside with our fingers crossed that the clouds really would clear. It’s about a 10 minute walk through the village to reach the gondola station. From there it is 30 CHF, or 15 CHF with the Swiss Pass, GA or Half Fare Card, to ride up to the top.
We have visited this area before and honestly, words cannot even describe how beautiful it is. We took the hiking trail that leads through the forest to the lake of Oeschinensee. The closer we got, the more the clouds cleared and revealed the views.
The trail led us to a hotel and restaurant area which gave absolutely stunning views over the lake, and the dramatic mountain peaks that surround it. However, at this time of year you can hardly tell this is a lake! It completely freezes over during the winter and is then quickly covered with layers of snow. This means it completely blends in with the rest of the landscape! If you’re interested to see how the lake looks during the summer posts then check out this post – the different is crazy!
After taking in the views, we headed down to the ice where lots of people were already having fun. Some had brought sledges with them, others were enjoying food and some people were even ice fishing which was so cool to see! We followed the UNESCO Ice Walk which is a loop trail on the frozen lake. It was so incredible to be able to walk on the ice like that, knowing that under your feet was a lake!
Next, we went to check out a frozen waterfall before heading back to the restaurant area and warming up with some hot drinks and chips from the little hut there. The indoor restaurant doesn’t seem to be open all the time. However, every time I’ve visited Oeschinensee, the outdoor food and drink hut is always open. So it is good to know you can always get some extra fuel after hike or warm up on here a cold day!
After a beautifully sunny (but chilly) afternoon in the mountains, it was time to head back down to the village of Kandersteg and get ready for dinner. We said goodbye to the stunning views of the frozen Oeschinensee and walked back along the snowy path and through the wintery forest to the cable car station. The light was absolutely magical at this time!
Once we arrived back at our hotel, I warmed up and freshened up with a bubble bath. Then we get ready to head down to the hotel’s restaurant for dinner. I was so excited for the meal because we very rarely eat out in Switzerland due to it being so expensive. Lots of traditional Swiss food was being served in our chalet hotel’s on-site restaurant. Everything smelt delicious as we arrived!
For our main courses, I had Rösti topped with raclette cheese, tomatoes and an egg, and my boyfriend had Egliknusperli (fish fillets in a batter). For dessert, I ordered an apple strudel (always my go-to when we do eat out in Switzerland or Germany) and Jamie had an ovomaltine sundae.
Day 3: exploring the village and visiting the lake of Blausee…
After enjoying breakfast bright and early, we went for a stroll through the village of Kandersteg to take in all the sunny, snowy morning scenery. It was very peaceful and the air was crisp. Sadly, it was then time to check out of our hotel. Luckily though, it wasn’t the end of our winter weekend adventures since we had planned one more stop on our way home.
We hopped on a bus to take us to the lake of Blausee, which is just a 13 minute drive away from Kandersteg. This tiny little lake is a popular spot to visit because of its crystal clear waters and the bright blue colour of the water. In winter, I found it wasn’t quite as striking as when I had previously visited during autumn. In October, the orange autumn foliage contrasts beautifully with the blue water. During this visit in February, it didn’t quite have this same colourful “pop” but was still a very beautiful place nevertheless.
Unlike the nearby Oeschinensee, Blausee rarely freezes over during the winter, meaning you can still see the magnificent blue waters all year round. We took a stroll around the lake, wandered through the small nature park and then enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine. A lovely end to our winter weekend away here in Switzerland! Finally, we hopped back on the bus which took us to a nearby train station. From there, we headed back home to Zürich!